Sewing blather

[fiberaddict]

you've been warned! :lol:

H, YES, please!!! I have...curves. Think Marilyn - my "girls" are, well, I am 8" larger at the widest part of my bust than my under bust, which means that most RTW and patterns just don't *fit* correctly. (Most patterns are sized for a C-cup....yeah, not so much with the fitting. A C-cup is 3" difference.....:sigh:) I also have HIPS, and a "rumble-seat". :lol: If I find pants to fit my hips, the waist gaps, but if they fit my waist, I can't get them over the hips. :sigh: So, at some point I am going to HAVE to start sewing clothes for me. (I think there's 12" or more between my waist and hip measurement.....curvy? Yup.)(Also, most women are wearing the wrong cup size - most stores assume that a "D" is the largest cup size....it's not. :wink:)

I LOVE Gertie's sundress pattern in the book, only I need straps. And a longer skirt, but...I prefer tea-length to knee-length. I LOVE the 50's look - that cute top with full skirt! - but honestly? I live in shorts/pants. Dresses are fun, but not so practical with the horses/goats (I know some people do it, but......not me. Not right now, anyway.)

I am currently living in unstructured clothes - t-shirts and loose shorts - even though I love the look of the 50's silhouette. Just....I can't wear a corset every day. :lol:

I have books on altering patterns, and I have a working knowledge of it (I did regrade my Bombshell swimsuit - I was 1 size at the waist, and another at the bust and hips, so I re-drew the lines to get a perfectly-fitting suit. It wasn't as hard as I thought - but I am leery of attempting that with pants. I'll get there - eventually!)...I just need to get more comfortable with my machine and with actually assembling things. And get over the "must go fast!" mindset I have.......

Anyway - help would be MOST appreciated! Tips/suggestions - lay it on me, girl! I'd love it!

Comments

[(Anonymous)]

Okay. First off - good news. You're probably going to fit better in vintage and vintage inspired clothes, because the old stuff assumed you were wearing a corset and a pushup bra, and has proportions thusly. Because of your proportions, you don't *need* to wear a corset to fit into those. (A good solid bra, yes).

The less good news is with that fit differential (mine is about the same) you will *always* be doing a FBA. It's not the hardest thing in the world, and there are lots of instructions online. Learn it, love it, embrace it.

Don't buy patterns to your full-bust measurement, use your high-bust, which is the measuring tape just under your armpits, over the girls. If you buy to the full-bust the rest of the pattern will be ginormous, especially through the shoulders, which affects everything.

Bras - I like Soma (there's a store not far from me) and a couple of the European brands, but mostly I end up buying online from brands I've had success with. D. You're a funny, funny woman. I've not seen that cup size since I got out of braces. (This tells you that if you really like something I made, it will probably work for you too). (I wear petticoats to give myself a hip fluff, fwiw).

Dresses and skirts will look better over the hourglass than pants/shorts and I don't have much to offer there, because I just don't make them. I just buy some yoga pants or capris for CF and have done. (I can't do situps in mixed company - much less handstands - in a skort). Anyway I have no hips. :p

Independent makers: I'm loving Sew Chic right now for the hourglass frame. Check out her size charts, and the difference between her bust/waist/hip. I think this might be good for you.
http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/size.html (And then go look at the patterns, try not to drool on your keyboard).

Actually, always check out the size ranges - that will quickly tell you if the fit of something is going to work for you. You know the dif between the size chart and wearing ease, yes?

If you're willing to take some extra darts in, the Butterick wrap dress is fun. A fabric hog, but fun. I'll mail you some things that my hipless self isn't going to use or isn't going to use again...

Any fit-and-flare dress will make with the happy.

Vintage Vogues *have not been resized* for the modern shape, which is great news for you and I. http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v2902-products-4893.php?page_id=850 Likewise, anything "retro" from Butterick or McCalls (That isn't by Gertie) is just a re-release. Again with the happy for our proportions.

Lots of times the armpits on Big Four patterns (unless you're buying retro patterns) are mysteriously loooow. This isn't you, it's the patterns. Sandra Betzina has good clear directions on how to do a princess-seam FBA if you can find one of her patterns.

ALWAYS HAVE A DEFINED WAIST. Otherwise you look visually much larger, your clothes will skim from bust to hip and people will "fill in" the difference. You don't need a corset, just tuck in your shirt.

Check out patternreview.com for pictures of the patterns on actual humans. Very helpful!

More as I think of it, poor you! :D - H

[(Anonymous)]

Oh! I've just thought of an hourglass shaped pattern maker who does normalish clothes, mostly knits. And yes, she does pants.

Give a looksie at Cake patterns (sewingcake.com) or online http://sewing.patternreview.com/shop/Cake - I know she just released a pants pattern, though it doesn't seem to be online yet? Hm. Anyway.